The Sand Strip Between the Ocean and the Volta

Day 1

Before I begin I just want to say that I am, right now, at this very moment, sitting in our office with my morning coffee listening to the most beautiful music. There is a church across our lawn and the people are singing the most gorgeous choir music ever. We are lucky, I feel blessed.

We set off to a place called Ada Foah that lies east of Accra, on the coast, before Togo. We get off the tro tro and are immediately harassed by boatmen for a ride to the estuary. After getting supplies from a picturesque market, we follow a couple guys to the water’s edge. They want to overcharge us and we know it. It’s hot, were tired carrying our packs, and there is no one else to bargain with. We know we’re getting ripped off but finally agree to 15 Ghana Cedi’s. We ride on this long narrow motor boat, past docks and the most beautiful houses. The rich from Accra have their holiday homes here.

We disembark at the Estuary. This place was created by Rasta’s about 5 years back and it is paradise. It is a thin strip of beach with the Volta River on one side and the waves of the ocean crashing on the other. The beach is dotted with palm trees, mud huts, and hammocks. Floating islands pass by on the river, falcons fly overhead, and fisherman paddle by in their narrow boats. The ocean breeze keeps us cool and we sleep in a small bamboo and palm leaf hut with a sand floor. The facilities are basic. A bucket shower and toilet built into the sand, sheltered with manmade palm leaf walls. We use the lake to wash instead, it is heaven.

We share a lunch of fresh grilled barracuda and jollof rice. We relax and drink and soak up this place. At night they bring out the drums and dancers around a large fire. We head to bed early, tired from our travels. It is the most peaceful sleep ever with the cool breeze and the sound of drums and ocean fighting over one another. There is of course one inconvenience. A storm comes. It sounds great a first, but it starts to rain. We have a leak. No, we have a few leaks. Get up, protect the cameras, and attempt to find a dry spot on the bed. We sleep anyways and are still happy to be there. Nothing is perfect, but this place sure was close.