In the Big City

Accra is nuts. It is a big city, chocker block full of people, trying to get in and out. The rat race is as big here as anywhere else. We are so untouched in our little town that I had forgotten the taste of the big city, the rush to make the next buck, the stragglers left begging on the side of the road, and the offering of anything you could wish for. (Burgers, I had a burger!).

The biggest thing that defines this city is sadly its traffic; it is horrendous! I have never seen anything like it, and that goes to say a lot. There is no metro, no subway to save the day, and you don’t see people riding around on bikes. I think this is due to the simple fact that you would be INSANE to ride a bike in Accra on the main streets. The drivers are mad! Swerving in and out, driving on the wrong side of the road to get ahead a few cars. I send my utmost respect to the taxi drivers for their never ending patience; how do they do it?

Here is where I and most travelers first encounter the strangest form of shopping ever. I’m not sure what to call it; Tro Tro shopping, Street Venders, Retail Car trade? Basically, there are thousands of people selling from the baskets on their heads. They do this whilst juggling in between the lanes and lanes of cars that are fighting to get through Accra’s streets. And it’s not safe either. Can you imagine dodging in and out of cars, trying to get your money as the light turns green, and the Tro Tro starts driving away? Joe had to throw his change at a young lady the other day. If she found it she got a tip. You can buy bananas, water, fried plantain, frozen yoghurt, peanuts, toothpaste, rat poison*, toilet paper, colouring books, the bible, headphones, car cleaner, DVD’s, Bags, fabric, super glue, the list goes on. And if there is one thing you should remember: if you don’t want it don’t look, stare straight ahead, don’t glance over, don’t even blink, and when the light turns green, DRIVE!

Other than the traffic I had a good time in Accra. Joe had his work meetings everyday and I ventured out on my own and even learned a little about navigating my way through the city with tro tro’s. I went to embassies, shopped (finally!), got stuck in traffic jams, walked around the crazy Osu district, went to Labadi beach for a Rasta outdoor music party, and met some very interesting people. I found air conditioned restaurants with European food, a tailor to make my dress for Ang’s wedding (Bog- you have no idea what I went through!), and even had a hot shower! So, Accra felt a little like luxury, and it was nice to experience it. I felt like I had done well, and was impressed with myself and my courage at going at it alone, but after a week I was ready to go.


*My first time in Accra I witnessed a man carrying four dead rats by the tails, whilst selling his poison. Interesting marketing strategy to say the least. And it’s caught on; I’ve even seen it here, in Praso, on Market day.