Thursday, December 2, 2010

Journey to Accra

Joe and I have been on a trip. It has been a very interesting experience and I’ve got so much to tell. Too much for one entry, so I will start from the first journey and hope to get it all down eventually.

We started out in Accra, the capital of Ghana, as Joe had a one week work engagement there. He left on Sunday, and I the next day. First it was the tro tro to Cape coast where I picked up my passport with my brand new Ghana extension stamp. I tried to do some haggling for a pair of used Nike’s but soon gave up. He wanted 30 Ghana Cedi’s, I laughed and did the old walk away, hoping he would follow. No luck, no shoes, too bad. I headed for the beach next, a place called Anamabo; I had heard that it was nice. The tro tro drops me off on the side of the highway and I follow a sign leading me down a dirt road. A little worried. Two Abronnees drive by, so I know I'm on the right path. I see that there is a big arch over the entrance. Oh no, this must be an expensive place. And I was hungry. They let me in for free after I imply that I am planning on spending some money. I sprawl out in the sun, armed with sunscreen, an overpriced beer and cigarettes. Palm trees, the rough ocean, white sand, what more do I need?

On my way out I asked if it was possible to walk down the beach to the village and get to the highway from there. They thought I was crazy, “Why would an abronee want to do that?” I went ahead anyways and met a girl I’d spoken with earlier. She was getting harassed by the village kids on the beach. I gave them a little back, spoke a few words in their language, and they buggered off. Well done Chels! Through the village, mud huts, tiny paths, strange smells, garbage littering the odd spot here and there, women cooking outdoors, smashing their fufu pots, it was all there. I asked a lady for directions and instead she sent for her son. He escorted me the entire way. This town must have been something back in the colonial times. The main street was wide, running perpendicular from the ocean’s edge, lined with old colonial pillared buildings. There was a large hill with a fortress overlooking us coming nearer as we walked. People were yelling at me, men proclaiming their love, shouting marriage vows, children pointing and yelling “abronee! abronee!”, some asking for money, some running scared. This was the first time I did this alone, without Joe. He has been a sort of protection for me, my sidekick, yelling answers back, helping me make jokes. We work well together. So, I was a little nervous, but in doing this I really gained some strength and confidence. It was nice. And my little chaperone was quite cool too.

The tro tro came and I was off to Accra. It was getting dark when we arrived and I knew it was going to be a little tough going. We were dropped off at Kaneshie station, the largest in the city. I was scared and overwhelmed, but didn’t show it. This place was massive, like being in West Edmonton Mall* on Boxing Day, times a hundred. A man from the tro tro showed me the way. We finally made it to where I would need to wait and there was a considerable line up, say 50 people deep. Oh dear, it was getting dark. I think he saw the worry on my face. Instead he suggested a taxi. I said that it would be expensive and he replied that we could share, that he was going in my direction anyways. Alright, let’s go. I could tell this man was somewhat well off and he was very respectable. Then he asked me on a date! Oh crap! I lied and said I had dinner plans. He asked for my number. I lied again and said I didn’t have a phone, but I had a pen! (I say this quite often here.) Then Joe called. He heard the phone, I couldn’t ignore it. It was so awkward. Once again I lied and said that it wasn’t my phone. UGH! Why didn’t I just tell the truth in the first place? Well, I suppose some lessons are learned the hard way. Safe at last I was happy to be back in Joe’s company.


*West Edmonton Mall is a trade mark of my home town. It was once the largest indoor shopping mall in the world, a title we Edmontonians have been very proud of. The Japanese have now built two larger ones.

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