The magic Tro Tro ride

I wanted to write about our Tro Tro experience. The Tro Tro is a large van, usually old, used and imported, and is the main form of transport in Ghana. It’s the cheapest and therefore the most popular way of getting around this country.

Cape Coast is approximately 2 hours south of our home in Twifu Praso. We decided to head south to the beach and had a fantastic day musing around, getting our feet wet, and sipping a beer on the beach. Meeting the Rastafarians was an interesting treat with their way of talking and body language that makes you feel like you should be sneaking out back and puffing a fat doobie, listening to Bob Marley, and relaxing Rasta style. And seeing the old Cape Coast slave trading castle was sad and affected our hearts. And there was Joe, swimming in the ocean with two African boys, throwing them around and being as sexy as can be. Then it was the shopping and bartering of course, and that is always a feat; the people being funny and difficult. But, by far the most interesting experience was us trying to get home.

The markets were all closing, the streets bustling and busy. We had bought a large foam mattress to bring back with us and I had it rolled up and placed on my head. Picture me, white Abronee, trying to balance like the talented Africans, wiggling my way through this manic crowd. We finally found the Tro Tro station; quiet and easy going, it was nice to get out of the crowd. We met two guys heading to Praso and soon realized that we would all have to go down to the street where the Tro Tro’s drive by in order to find one. It was too busy; the transportation wouldn’t make it as far as the station so we were off.

We found the right street corner. There were hundreds of people waiting for their Tro Tro’s to get wherever they were going. On both sides of the street people were yelling and waiting and hoping. The vans drive by and everyone is yelling the names of their towns, “PRASO”!?! Yes, we finally found one and I ran fast and there was a crowd of thirty running to get onto this Tro Tro, but I actually made it, fat mattress and all, and Joe got in behind me.

A man started grabbing my arm through the window, saying the Tro Tro was to be 5, instead of the regular 2 Ghana Cedi’s. “Pfff! No way man! Talk to my husband” and I pointed to Joe, ignoring this man. As an Abronnee you are always on guard. You feel like someone is always trying to make an extra buck off you. But, sometimes you are wrong. The other people in the Tro Tro started getting off, I was told to follow. This man was overcharging us, the people were not going to take it and everyone exited the bus. We were back to square one.

It was getting dark. We were frustrated. And to make matters worse it looked as though the majority of people were waiting for the same Tro Tro as us. The 2 boys we met were waiting in other spots. We kept our eyes on them, trying to see if they would start running. They said it would be hard for us Abronnees to get on. Why did I decide to buy this stupid fat mattress?

Another one came and we started running for it, with a crowd of 40 this time. Joe made it on, just. His backpack was still outside the Tro Tro, another mans head was under his arm, so he was forced to almost headlock him. This man kept on pushing, Joe was all twisted, but the backpack was caught and the man couldn’t push him anymore. The entire bus was laughing and yelling and fighting and screaming. I used my mattress to block others trying to get on but I couldn't make it. Luckily the mattress was able to fit in the trunk. So, I hopped on Joe's lap, squished to the max, but was just happy to be on.

With help we closed the door, all body parts in. A man came up and was yelling for us to get out, that I couldn't sit on joes lap. He opened the door, then others closed it, and he opened it again. Two guys were defending us and he kept on opening and yelling “you go out! You go out”. We wouldn’t budge. There was another guy sitting on a lap anyways. Abronnee or not, I wasn’t moving.

The road to Praso is full of potholes. You can imagine the squished bumpy ride. I counted 20 passengers on the Tro Tro. Legally they should hold about 15 tops. We stopped at one village, and as soon as the doors were open there were about 20 people standing there, trying to get the spots of the 2 passengers that had just left. As the ride went on and more people got off I was able to get about half a bum cheek on the seat and then finally a full spot. Ahh, bliss. When we made it to Praso, the last stop, the money collector tried charging us extra for the mattress. I just laughed and walked away, happy to be home at last.